Last month I helped facilitate a two-day food security
conference in Meiganga, a city in the Adamaoua close to the border with the
CAR. Several volunteers in the area
brought health center staff and care providers who work in malnutrition. The participant were all from villages in the
east Adamaoua, and were about evenly split between Fulbe, Muslim herders who
make up the dominant ethnic group in the Grand North, and Gbaya, a smaller
Christian minority who tend to cultivate corn or beans rather than investing in
cattle and goats. There is no slight
antagonism between the two groups; the Fulbe dismiss the Gbaya as lazy drunks,
while the Gbaya feel that the Fulbe are domineering and sly. Still, trade occurs between the groups, and
in this professional setting, none of us anticipated any problems. Colleen, a volunteer in Meiganga, had done an
excellent job organizing the logistics of the conference, and things began
smoothly.
My role was to give the practical demonstrations, making
enriched peanut paste, soymilk, soy bouille, and tofu with the help of a CARE-
trained counterpart, Marie. But
practicums must always be based in theory, and before we could light the
propane stove, we had a 2-hour session on nutrition and malnutritions. We started off on the right foot; it was
frankly a relief to be working with health care providers. As I normally give nutrition sessions to
undereducated village women, who struggle with concepts like protein
deficiency—or even protein as a distinct food group—it was a pleasant change to
be able to open a discussion with people who already had the necessary
knowledge to skip straight to talking about causality and possible
interventions.
We asked the group to think through why, in their
communities, food insecurity exists. Was
it a question of access to certain foods?
Was there consistent access, but poor utilization? Was it a question of larger system
instability, or was there a missing link at the household level?
A health mobilizer from a small bush village volunteered
that while cities like Meiganga had access to fresh vegetables and meat on a
daily basis, challenges posed by erratic transportation meant his community
could only buy produce at a once-weekly market.
Another participant, a Fulbe man named Dahirou from the town of Mbarang,
countered by pointing out that individuals could improve access by gardening,
thus providing themselves with nutritionally diverse food options.
Across the table, a Gbaya woman—also from the Mbarang
contingent—snorted contemptuously. “We
could grow gardens, of course, if your goats would stop eating them and your
cattle stop trampling our fields!”
Dahirou started up, nostrils flaring, his accent becoming
thicker and his rolling r’s more exaggerated in his indignation. ‘My goats? MY goats?!”
And like that, the whole room erupted into chaos, Fulbe and
Gbaya leaping to their feet, shouting across the table in their respective
patois, pointing accusatory fingers and hurling blame like handfuls of mud. It
felt something like this, particularly the part between 1:36 and 2:10:
This was the most open example I had ever seen of the
farmer-herder conflict, something anyone who has read about land management in
sub-Saharan Africa, particularly in the Sahel, will recognize. It had come up before during my service—the Nbororo,
nomadic herders who wander the North and Adamoua, are widely disliked, in part
because their cattle destroy crops—but I had never experienced such a stark
presentation of the depth of emotion tied up in the question of land
rights. Will, the conference organizer
and primary presenter, tabled the debate, and the furor finally blew over. The participants, in typical Cameroonian
fashion, seemed to hold no individual grudges, dividing into groups for the
next session without complaint or rancor.
The rest of the conference went as well as could be
expected. Will and I ended up spending
hours the first night boiling and straining soy curds to make tofu for the next
day’s lunch—feeding almost forty people more than sample-size portions is a
task not undertaken lightly. By the end
of the night, Colleen’s kitchen floor was slick with spilled soymilk, Will and
I were exhausted and filthy, and every pot in the house was encrusted in
tofu. Still, it was worth it to promote
soy among the participants, who in turn have the power to disseminate what they
learned in their communities.
It's always a pleasure to read you.
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